IT’S the spices that make Indian food so irresistible, and saffron, paprika, cardamon, turmeric, cloves, coriander and cinnamon are the mainstay of  the aptly named 7 Spices in Ardross.

The eatery has been around since 2004, and the D’Angers dropped in recently to check out why it’s lasted the distance.

Like the vibrant colours of the sub-continent there’s nothing subtle about the decor, which hits with sensory overload the minute you climb the rather modest stairs to the second level.

Bright colours, a chandelier, opulent curtained alcoves and a huge (artificial) tree dominate—and the waiters’ welcoming smiles match the opulent display.

Dinner was a thank you to my brother and sister-in-law for looking after our lolloping great rottweiler while we holidayed in the far north-west, so there was no holding back.

We kicked off with deliciously spicy and crisp bhonda, ($7.50), moist onion bhaji and spiced fish cutlets ($8.50), all of which were so good we polished off the salad garnish as well.

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The omnivores of the family shared a butter chicken ($21) and lamb korma ($21.50), and given there was a just a smear of sauce left I’d say they were pretty happy with their choice.

The meat in both was moist and mouth-melting tender, they reported.

D’Angerous and I shared a gobi Manchurian ($15.50) a delicious combination of sweet and savoury flavours over cauliflower, and a brinjal potatoes ($15.50).

The lightly fried eggplant and potatoes was mildly spicy, but still packed a flavour-filled punch to be mopped up with garlic naan.

Three kulfis ($5.90)—pistachio and mango—and a serve of gulab jamun, sweetened the thank you, and I’m sure Lars the wonder dog will be welcome back next holiday, even if he did harrow the vegie patch at the wrong time of year.

We were at 7 Spices mid-week, but Friday and Saturday is buffet night, when for the ridiculously low price of $34.50 ($17.95 kids under 11) you can work your way through a smorgasbord.

7 Spices
35 Ardross Street, Applecross
9316 3518
open 7 nights 5pm to late
Licensed