Cheesy celebration

FOR some people, 33 years of wedded bliss means splashing out on a deluxe candle-lit dinner, but not the thrifty D’Angers.

Besides, D’Angerous Dave wanted pizza. Not just any pizza – it had to be great, or at least very, very good.

An on-line search close to home didn’t cut it, because Fremantle’s upmarket joints were closed for lunch on a Thursday.

I’m probably going to get hate mail, and I’m not saying you can’t get an acceptable pizza around town at noon, but the average on-line approval rating for many is 25 per cent.

Manuka on High Street did have a 73 per cent rating, but it doesn’t open until 5pm, so we headed up the coast to Canteen Pizza in Cottesloe.

The wind was howling, so instead of a beach view we opted to sit inside and enjoy the sight of a very adroit young man sliding pizzas in and out of the oven like frisbees.

From thong-clad beach goers and well-heeled western suburb types, to a liberal sprinkling of the uber-trendy, Canteen is a funky eatery that knows how to cater for everyone.

In next to no time, our efficient and pleasant waiter had us seated, producing a water carafe like a rabbit from a magician’s hat.

She waxed lyrical about the ortolana pizza ($24), and boy was she right—it was a fantastic creation with a rich tomato base, and topped with zucchini, eggplant, masses of olives and fresh oregano.

The dough is hand made and allowed to rise naturally for 48 hours, while the crust was wonderfully chewy.

D’Angerous had the quattro formaggi ($25): a perfect blend of cheeses that left an “I want more” gorgonzola zing on the tongue.

Pizza isn’t the only option on the menu, and there’s quite a few alternatives, including a whole oven baked fish ($25), rainbow trout ($27), Shark Bay tiger prawns with sambuca ($18), and Albany Yorkshire pork loin in three different sizes ($18/$35/$60).

We finished with a tiramisu ($15): a huge slab of decadence that we gobbled down.

Canteen’s wine list screams western suburbs, with an expensive boutique range that doesn’t have many single-glass options.

But I was able to settle on a very acceptable Koerner Watervale riesling ($13).

by JENNY D’ANGER

Canteen Pizza
110 Marine Parade, Cottesloe

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