THE kangaroo at Young George is the best I’ve ever had.
Their version has saltbush twig skewers of chunky meat grilled to melt-in-your-mouth perfection ($22).
The rare-cooked skippy is coated with a rich and nutty pepita satay sauce, fermented pumpkin, fried saltbush leaves and a drizzle of sweet sticky honey.
I’ve eaten a lot of roo, but it doesn’t get better than this.
The masterful dish is testament to the culinary genius in Young George’s menu, which boasts seductive dishes like octopus head pasta ($19), smoked pork jowl ($28) and house-made charcuterie, including duck prosciutto ($19) and mortadella with pistachio ($17).
We each chose three dishes from the lunch menu ($25 per person).
A few slices of housemade sourdough with whipped butter ($3) kicked things off.
The fluffy bread arrived just out of the oven and steaming hot. Simple, but deserving of a mention.
Warming up our palettes was a simple charcuterie-style plate with a generous serving of house-made salami cotto.
Cotto salami is heated during the preparation process. The flavour is more subtle than a traditional air-dried salami but the thin, juicy slices are still bursting with garlic, pepper and pork. The dish was accompanied by cornichons and mustard.
The split-pea hummus is an atypical spin on the Middle Eastern staple, but it’s just as thick and creamy and I reckon it’s even tastier.
A small well in the middle contained fragrant olive oil and a heap of dukkah.
We scooped up every last bit with a piece of salty flatbread that seemed to be the size of a boogie-board.
Local sardines, crumbed cuttlefish and giant prawns from Exmouth made up the seafood portion of our feast.
The sardines are served on toasted sourdough with a spicy harissa sugo, pickled onions and a few fresh parsley leaves.
The cuttlefish tentacles come in a small bowl topped with a crunchy medley of fried shallots and spring onions.
If you’ve never eaten cuttlefish tentacles before, they’re very similar to squid but pack much more flavour.
The prawns are crumbed, deep fried and served whole, meaning you eat everything from head to tail.
A squirt of lime and a quick dunk in the sambal aioli and you’ve got an incredible mouthful of food.
Young George’s high-profile chef Melissa Palinka is one of the state’s best and the East Fremantle restaurant has won multiple awards, but our lunch only cost $72, making Young George an affordable regular treat.
by MATTHEW EELES
48 George Street, East Fremantle
Phone 6424 9500