I USED to know a “Baby Roy” back in Glasgow.
Unfortunately he was a bald, fully-grown psychopath who would lob mutton pies and empty cans of lager at folk passing his tenement window.
So, probably through PTSD, I have avoided Baby Roy’s in the Melville Hawaiian Shopping Centre.
But after checking the coast was clear, I plucked up the courage and recently took the family there.
The menu had a small range of beef and chicken burgers (nothing too outre or gratuitous), hotdogs, milkshakes and sides.
Hot dog huts
I was pleased they sold a few varieties of hotdog (Chicago, New York deli, Philly cheese steak) as it’s a bit of a neglected food group in Australia.
In European countries like Denmark they have hot dog huts on every other street corner with a vast range of styles and flavours (my favourite was the Fransk with the hollowed-out roll).
Baby Roy’s had also weekly specials like the Chick-a-tziki burger (grilled chicken with tzatziki $15) which keeps return customers and short-order chefs interested.
Normally I’m pretty traditional and just go for the classic cheese burger, but this time I pushed the deep-fried boat out slightly and went for the El Diablo ($14.50).
The twist? Some waffle fries and jalapenos perched on top of the 150g Angus patty.
It added a nice texture to the patty, which had a lovely strong meaty punch, and turned the burger into a borderline meal.
Waffle fries are somewhat of a signature side for Baby Roy’s and these had plenty of flavour with a satisfying crunch.
A nice alternative to the ubiquitous and prosaic shoestring fries.
The rest of the flavours in the burger were well balanced with the mild heat from the jalapenos not overwhelming the cheese, onion, mayo and hot ketchup.
The El Diablo was a spicy little number which I thoroughly enjoyed.
My wife was busy tucking into her Oklahoma Smash ($14.50) which was crammed with cheese, bacon, caramelised onion, pickles and smoky BBQ sauce.
After a stressful week at her new job, the indulgent burger was just the ticket.
“The patty and ingredients taste really fresh and it’s a lovely light bun,” she said.
“With the double bacon and double cheese it’s pretty rich, so it might not be for everyone, but I’m enjoying it. Top notch.”
Across the table, my young kids were deathly quiet.
Three options: they were re-enacting a scene from The Omen, dog-tired after their first week back at school, or enjoying their kids slider and fries ($12 each).
Thankfully it was options two and three.
Their sliders were just the right size and I felt it was the perfect portion for youngish children.
Baby Roy’s is a good option for a quick, high-quality burger with the waffle fries and hot dogs adding an interesting twist to the tried-and-tested burger bar formula.
It was so good even the original Baby Roy from Glasgow might like it, or he could just launch it out his window at an unsuspecting pedestrian instead.
380 Canning Highway (Hawaiian Shopping Centre),