by LINE STENSETH

PERCHED on sand dunes above the Fremantle surf lifesaving club, Bib and Tucker offers stunning 180-degree views, stretching from the iconic cranes of the harbour along a shimmering coastline to the tall pines of Cottesloe.

Opened by co-owners Eamon Sullivan, Steve Hooker and Jamie Dwyer in 2013, their brainchild has in its two years so far earned a great reputation amongst west coast foodies.

Capturing the essence of beachside dining, Bib and Tucker greets patrons straight from the turquoise Indian Ocean with a row of taps and a sign that reads “Sandy Feet?!”. Chilled beach tunes play over the speakers, an open kitchen shows large jars of pickled vegetables. Mood lighting by oversized, industrial pendants creates a feeling of unpretentiousness.

Our waiter guides us past the long, rectangular bar where bartenders blend classics like the mojito and amaretto sour, to a table outside, just in time for the beautiful sun setting over the Indian Ocean. Even if you’re not a romantic, this scenery really sets the mood.

The menu fits well with Fremantle’s culinary tradition, showcasing honest and healthy nosh with a modern twist. It features modern favourites including pulled pork (pizza) and (rotisserie) pork belly. While the mains offer less seafood than expected for an eatery where you can taste the salty sea in the breeze, the bites and entrees include Cod Fritters ($14), Freshly Shucked Oysters ($4) and Soft Shell Crab Slider ($9).

Saving space for the dessert I went straight for mains and ordered the Mojo Marinated Rotissary Chicken ($29) with freekeh and green mojo sauce. Mr X went for the hearty Wood Roasted 300g Pork Chop ($37) with baby onions and crackling.

When the dishes came to the table they smelled divine with strong hints of garlic and roast meat. The chicken was great with the salad of freekeh (an ancient grain) and orange being the surprising star of the plate, offering freshness and sweet citrus. The flavours of the marinated rotisserie chicken were delicious, although some parts could have been more moist. The green mojo sauce (a Spanish herb sauce) packed a punch, but was a little overpowering with a heavy-duty garlic taste that followed me for the rest of the night.

Mr X’s Pork Chop had a delicious seasoning with nectarines and roasted baby onions complementing the meat. Unfortunately the pork itself was a tad dry and Mr X was sure that if the dish had come with a sauce it would have made for a more pleasant eating experience.

With the sun fully set and heating lamps assisting the cool wind of the autumn night, we asked for the dessert menu from a somewhat inattentive staff. While the Banoffee Bombe Alaska sounded amazing, this self-confessed chocoholic ordered the Violet Crumble ($17).  A valrhona chocolate bar with chocolate soil, honey comb and honey from Bib & Tucker’s own rooftop beehives. The chocolate was rich and intense with a touch of saltyness, but bordered on the sickly sweet with nothing to refresh the palate. I think a citrus element would make this dessert a showstopper.

Bib and Tucker ticks most boxes, with a fantastic menu, location and atmosphere, but has perhaps become too relaxed with the basics. In this price range the discerning Freo foodie expects a more attentive service and for dishes to be consistently cooked to perfection. With a bit more love and care, this beachside gem could become a Freo institution.

Although the restaurant didn’t seem too busy this Sunday, I would recommend booking a table as I’ve heard of friends waiting for as long as an hour to be seated on busy nights and mornings.

Bib & Tucker
18 Leighton Beach
Boulevard, North Fremantle
Phone 9433 2147
Open for breakfast Tuesday to Sunday 7–11am,
lunch 12-3pm
Open for dinner 5.30-9pm  Wednesday to Sunday