VILLA ROMA, Fremantle
by JENNY D’ANGER:
The last time I had dinner at this establishment it was still just the plain old Roma, a West End institution known far and wide for good, honest Italian-Australian tucker and formica tables that harkened back to simpler times.
That long-ago visit unfolded like an episode of Fawlty Towers with a large German waitress barking orders at diners while ignoring repeated request for drinks, or just about anything else. Spaghetti in countless ways dominated the menu: with egg, with steak, with chips…I was almost surprised not to see spaghetti and ice cream for dessert.
The much-loved Abrugiato family sold the place to Old Papa’s founder Nunzio Gumina a few years back and he rebadged it Villa Roma, also dialling it up a few notches on the cuisine-o-meter but retaining that quirky something that made the original such a favourite for so many years.
We bustled in early on a Tuesday evening and the place was already bubbling with a decent crowd of happy patrons that grew as we devoured our meal.
Wait staff greeted us like regulars and we were soon seated at a table for two overlooking High Street and its gorgeous Victorian streetscape, the most intact in the world I’m reliably informed.
We kicked off with a rosemary and rock-salt pizza ($14) as a change from the standard garlic bread.
The dough was crisp on the outside while retaining a pleasing softness to the flavoursome inside.
There’s a range of pizzas, and for vegans there are even two choices without cheese.
Eschewing other starters, we went straight for mains.
The only thing that would entice the delectable Dave away from fresh sardines is whitebait, but that wasn’t on the menu so, as anticipated, it was sardines for him ($30).
He was in seventh heaven, and so impressed with the juicy little critters he insisted I try one.
I have to admit they were pretty good, without the overly strong fishiness I associate with the dainty fish.
I was torn between a mushroom risotto ($24), barramundi alla chardonnay ($36) or whiting ($29).
I love the flavour of whiting but not so much dealing with the fine bones.
Joy of joys these were filleted so I didn’t have to.
The lightly crumbed morsels were delectable, as was the generous amount of tartare on the side.
Both dishes came with chips (I love that Villa Roma doesn’t call them fries) and a green salad.
The simple olive oil dressing was a real winner and we both wiped the remainder up with the last morsel of pizza.
We couldn’t fault the wait staff, who were discreetly attentive.
While there’s a mouth-watering selection of pasta (sadly, only one spaghetti on the list) the menu reflects a changing demographic with Harvey beef carpaccio ($29), homemade gnocchi ossobuco ($27), baby goat ($39) and homemade spinach and ricotta agnolotti ($26).
The dessert menu was tempting, with delights such as frangelico affogato ($10), homemade tiramisu ($9) and lemon sorbet with limoncello ($10), but we resisted for the sake of our figures. Ha ha.
Villa Roma
9–13 High Street, Fremantle
(just up from the Round House). Fully licensed
Tues–Sun from 5pm, + Wed–Fri 11.30am–2.30pm
9335 3664