PUBLIC & CO, South Fremantle
by JENNY D’ANGER:
Arjun Bhardwaj started at the bottom of the hospitality industry as a student, collecting dirty glasses in a Brisbane night club.
But like cream he rose to the top, working in Japan’s Hilton, some of the best establishments in the UK and managing a resort in Tenerife.
He followed love to Western Australia and took over South Fremantle’s Crowded House, closed it, gutted it and has re-opened as Public and Co.
Bhardwaj is happy to carry on House’s tradition for fine food but has added a tapas menu to keep prices affordable (there’s nothing on the menu over $20).
The interior is uber-modern with chic, crisp lines, and cute “graffiti” art forming cartoon-like pictures on the walls.
The Herald dropped in last week to discover superb and knowledgeable service—and fantastic food.
My lunch companion ordered pork bahn mi burger ($16), a dish enjoyed at a variety of eateries, including street carts, in Vietnam.
This was a “tamer version” (as in not full of mouth-searing chilli,) giving it a “broader appeal” to western palates, she reckones, tucking in with gusto.
It was seared scallops ($16) for me, tender morsels atop a bed of caramelised cauliflower, drizzled with sage and hazelnut butter.
We shared all but the pork bun, including beer-battered chips, served in a cute mini deep-fryer basket. These were crisp and lightly dusted with fresh coriander and parsley.
The buratta salad ($16) was an out-of-world experience. Buratta is an Italian soft cheese, and I can see it going viral, with its firm outer shell forming a parcel filled with soft cheese and cream.
Cut it open and the rich mix oozes langoriously out to mingle with truss tomato, watermelon, grapes and mint.
When it comes to dessert there are just two on the menu, but what a pair.
It was impossible to choose between the orange and vanilla brulee and the almond and ginger pudding ($14) so we had one of each— both superb but very different.
Presentation is part of the enjoyment at Public and Co and the brulee arrived with a generous scoop of porter (as in beer) ice cream sitting atop a sweet malt soil (made trendy by Heston Blumenthal).
A thick swirl of rich chocolate sauce had my mate nearly in tears: “Chocolate shouldn’t be allowed to compete with the other desserts,” she lamented.
“It’s like putting able-bodied athletes in the paralympics—it’s not fair.”
The pudding had a Dutch spiciness to it, was less sweet but equally delicious. As was the homemade almond ice cream on the side and the divine goji hop syrup.
A very good coffee ($4), and a delicious earl grey tea rounded off a terrific dining experience.
And with dishes like buttermilk biscuit, strawberries, cream and hop honey ($10) and avocado, eggs gribbiche with citrus oil ($14), on the breakfast menu I feel an early morning date coming on.
Public and Co
25 Douro Road, South Fremantle
Phone 6219 5314
open 7 days breakfast & lunch
Liquor licence pending