Kitchen artistry

CANVAS FREMANTLE ARTS CENTRE, Fremantle

by JENNY D’ANGER:

IF you have to admit to turning 70 what better place than the Fremantle Arts Centre’s grassy front courtyard.

Set under soaring trees, dappled light fell on long tables spread with crisp white cloths for a mate’s birthday breakfast gathering.

It was a surprise party and the shock on his face was laughed over by his unfeeling friends who gleefully enjoyed his initial discomfit.

Arts centre cafe Canvas did a slimmed down version of its breakfast menu to ensure an orderly dealing with the more than 30 guests, but there was plenty of choice for meat eaters and non-meat eaters alike.

A rotation of cheery waiters breezed in and out of the walled cafe, dispensing coffee and pots of tea to the bleary eyed diners, and were back with more, as cups were emptied, bearing testament to a fine brew no matter which way you have your poison.

Perusing the menu the roast field mushrooms sounded good to me ($19), although I dispensed with the poached eggs.

Sitting on a couple of crisp English muffins the mushrooms were plump and moist and the garlic-infused spinach tucked under was the perfect accompaniment.

Pretty soon people were happily tucking in all around me, including one friend who raved about her Basque hashed potatoes, served with red onions, scorched peppers, spinach, poached eggs and a sherry hollandaise and manchego cheese ($21).

The pan breakfast was pretty impressive, with lashings of bacon, pork and apple sausages, mushrooms, roasted tomato and buttered spinach ($21).

And the eggs flamenco ($18) had those who’d ordered them exclaiming “ole!” as they tucked in.

Having eaten at Canvas a time or two previously I can vouch for signature dish, red shakshuka ($18), with its eggs gently poached in a 16-hour slow-cooked Moroccan tomato sauce. I was a bit disappointed to see the lunch menu no longer featured the home-made dolmades because they had been to die for.

But there are some interesting replacements, including a vegetarian risotto ($18) and for meat eaters a chimichurri steak sandwich ($22), or braised black angus beef cheek ($29).

Now licensed, Canvas has a small but good wine list, including a couple of Spanish wines.