WHEN mates living in the Swan Valley are happy to drive all the way to Fremantle to catch up, the least one can do is find somewhere suitable to dine, so we headed to the Left Bank.

The last time I was here the upper level was the posh eating section, sporting lovely river views, a more up-market menu and hot and cold running waiters taking food and drink orders.

But the eatery/pub has, unlike Downton Abbey, succumbed to the times and whether you’re upstairs or down all are equal—which means (shudder) jostling your way to the counter every time you need something.

Delightful

The views are still great and the staff cheery and our companions, as always, delightful and entertaining.

The boys shared an entree of crumbed Fremantle sardines ($10), which were apparently delicious, with a very pleasant crispness to the tiny doomed fish.

Everyone dipped into the toasted Turkish bread with evoo, house-made dhukka ($8.50) and a trio of dips, the arrival of which doubled our bread count. Chunks of bread made short work of the oil and nutty dhukka, and there were oohs and aahs over the dips, including my favourite—a particularly good hummus.

Having ordered entrees and mains at the same time we were spared a repeat of the palaver of more ordering at the bar. See kids, age equals wisdom.

Our friends are of the surf and turf variety: Les going for the lemon-peppered calamari ($20) and wife Robbie keen for a steak, in this case the 300-gram aged rump ($29).

The squid, with a house-made Indian spiced chutney was tender as a baby’s bottom while the steak was cooked to pink perfection, tender and moist.

D’Angerous Dave’s beer-battered fish and chips ($25) was so generous it defeated even his impressive appetite.

I had no trouble polishing off my grilled Kimberley barramundi ($29): the large chunk of fish cooked perfectly, the warm potato salad with fried capers and rocket a fantastic accompaniment.

The Left Bank’s new egalitarian menu has something for everyone, with pizzas and a kiddie section, a range to share, and a $9.50 breakfast (bacon, eggs and juice) that’s bound to attract the morning crowd. I mean, breakfast on the river for under a bluey? Wow.

Sitting on the upper verandah of this former federation home, lights sparkled off the river and traffic moved almost silently across Stirling Bridge, but like all good things our evening came to an end and we wandered off into the night.

byJENNY D’ANGER

The Left Bank
15 Riverside Road,
East Fremantle
9319 1315
open 7 days breakfast, lunch, and dinner