SOUTH Fremantle’s newest Indian eatery Saroor has been getting rave reviews from locals, so it was time to check it out.

You’d think with four in close proximity there’d be nothing new, but Saroor takes Indian favourites and flips them on their head, adding a modern fusion of east and west including dishes such as honey chicken popcorn for the kids ($12) and slow braised lamb shank ($20) for the grown ups, and there’s plenty on the menu for the gluten intolerant.

A friend reckoned the goat curry ($26) braised in coconut cream, was out of this world, tender and tasty, and she loved the tandoori chicken ($18 entree).

A roaring open fire was a warm welcome as the D’Angers shivered in recently, and the greeting by the waiter was equally warm, and informative when it came to ordering.

We kicked off with some great beer battered onion bhaji ($14) with sweet tamarind sauce, and samosa chat, street food ($15).

The samosa was a surprise, nothing like the pastry parcels expected, but rather an attractive mound of spiced potato and green peas, encircled by finely sliced radish and cucumber, and topped with tamarind sauce, fresh mint, and pomegranate seeds, which figures on many of the dishes, and add a great sharp and sweet zing.

At the next table a turbaned gent and family were so impressed by the golgappe ($12) they ordered seconds.

The puffed balls of potato and flour arrived atop shot glasses filled with chilli, herbs, lime and tamarind water. Pour it into the ball and toss it down. Great fun and great food to judge by the smiles.

We ordered the entree-sized tandoor-cooked smoky mushroom ($15) and a tadka daal ($18) for our mains.

Which proved to be a great combination, the daal chilli hot and spicy with plenty of rich tomato sauce to soak up the steamed rice, and the tiny mushrooms were wonderfully dry with an almost nutty flavour.

Presentation is key at Saroor and the fungi were daintily balanced on chunks of cucumber, melon and moist slices of roast capsicum.

I’d been hanging out for the igloo ice-cream ($15), just because they look so awesome.

Water-filled balloons form the pendant shape, while a small blow torch creates a “cave” to hold the kulfi – cubes of coconut, mango and pistachio ice cream.

Amazing to look at, and great tastes, what a winner.

A huge, moist tiramisu ($9) kept D’Angerous happy for the short walk home, kept warm by memories of all those dishes left to explore next time.

by JENNY D’ANGER

Saroor
388 South Terrace, South Fremantle
open Wed–Mon for dinner
(closed Tues)
licenced, BYO wine only