Gold medal tucker

MY lunch companion was having an orgasm. Over brussels sprouts? Really?

“Oh my God,” she exclaimed rather loudly

“Oh my God,” she said again, hitting the table.

“Oh – my – God,” she whispered, eyes closed in enjoyment.

So I thought I’d better tuck in to discover if it really was an almost religious experience to have the flavours of baked sprouts in a caramel glaze hit home.

Who would have thought they could be so good, sprinkled with toasted buckwheat and juicy pomegranate seeds ($12). Why didn’t mums do this years ago instead of making generations of kids hate them?

31FOOD 1

“They’re soft and chewy and the caramelised dressing gives it a lovely oily richness,” my mate said after calming down.

She was more restrained over her steak tartare ($24), or maybe she’d just worn herself out.

Beautifully presented

Beautifully presented the mounds of finely sliced wagyu beef were embraced in a creamy horseradish sauce, and covered in wafer-thin slices of fresh truffle.

“You can’t hide a good cut of meat in a steak tartare; it will betray any attempt to comprise on quality,” she said.

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Initially put off by the price, the recommendation of the uber-helpful and knowledgeable waiter sent me towards the pumpkin gnocchi ($34).

And was so very, very glad I did. The tiny dumplings were light as a feather and the brown butter sage and lemon goats kurd ensured a fantastic richness, while the just crisp kale and pomegranate pangrattato (Italian breadcrumbs) ramped up the flavour even more.

Eatery owner and Olympic swimmer Eamon Sullivan obviously applies his medal-winning edge when it comes to food.

The decor is a winner too, funky-modern urban grunge, with massive windows to take in a stunning view of white sand and blue/green ocean.

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The richness of my meal didn’t leave room for dessert, but my mate was up for the roof-top honey, lemon verbena and mascapone mousse streusel, on a bed of lemon curd.

She was in raptures at the slightly savoury tang, possibly down to a hint of salt in the honey which is produced on the roof of the restaurant.
But I did think $17 was a tad rich.

But I’ll leave her the last word – which she always likes: “I literally can’t remember when I had such good food. It could be the last time I was here.”

by JENNY D’ANGER

Bib & Tucker
18 Leighton Beach
Boulevard, North Fremantle
open Mon–Sun breakfast
and lunch, Wed–Sun dinner
9433 2147

31 Vivisen 10x3 31 Turban 10x3 31 Silver Sushi 10x3

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