MY lunch companion was having an orgasm. Over brussels sprouts? Really?
“Oh my God,” she exclaimed rather loudly
“Oh my God,” she said again, hitting the table.
“Oh – my – God,” she whispered, eyes closed in enjoyment.
So I thought I’d better tuck in to discover if it really was an almost religious experience to have the flavours of baked sprouts in a caramel glaze hit home.
Who would have thought they could be so good, sprinkled with toasted buckwheat and juicy pomegranate seeds ($12). Why didn’t mums do this years ago instead of making generations of kids hate them?
“They’re soft and chewy and the caramelised dressing gives it a lovely oily richness,” my mate said after calming down.
She was more restrained over her steak tartare ($24), or maybe she’d just worn herself out.
Beautifully presented the mounds of finely sliced wagyu beef were embraced in a creamy horseradish sauce, and covered in wafer-thin slices of fresh truffle.
“You can’t hide a good cut of meat in a steak tartare; it will betray any attempt to comprise on quality,” she said.
Initially put off by the price, the recommendation of the uber-helpful and knowledgeable waiter sent me towards the pumpkin gnocchi ($34).
And was so very, very glad I did. The tiny dumplings were light as a feather and the brown butter sage and lemon goats kurd ensured a fantastic richness, while the just crisp kale and pomegranate pangrattato (Italian breadcrumbs) ramped up the flavour even more.
Eatery owner and Olympic swimmer Eamon Sullivan obviously applies his medal-winning edge when it comes to food.
The decor is a winner too, funky-modern urban grunge, with massive windows to take in a stunning view of white sand and blue/green ocean.
The richness of my meal didn’t leave room for dessert, but my mate was up for the roof-top honey, lemon verbena and mascapone mousse streusel, on a bed of lemon curd.
She was in raptures at the slightly savoury tang, possibly down to a hint of salt in the honey which is produced on the roof of the restaurant.
But I did think $17 was a tad rich.
But I’ll leave her the last word – which she always likes: “I literally can’t remember when I had such good food. It could be the last time I was here.”
by JENNY D’ANGER
Bib & Tucker
18 Leighton Beach
Boulevard, North Fremantle
open Mon–Sun breakfast
and lunch, Wed–Sun dinner