LOOKING like something out of Jeremy Wade’s River Monsters, a whole fish curled around the plate and gave us a baleful eye.

Undeterred by the gaze, we tucked into the sweet flesh and wonderfully crispy skin of the garlic and black pepper barramundi ($28.50), perched on a bed of green salad and chargrilled vegetables.

We’d already devoured spring rolls and curry puffs ($8) and had probably over ordered, but the fish was so good we polished it off in record time.

And then for extra pigginess we demolished a rich and flavoursome vegetarian green curry ($16.90).

By now the entrees were a distant, but good memory: the spring rolls were crisp and piping hot, while a very good sweet chilli sauce added to the perfection.

Encased in puff pastry, the curry puffs varied from the Indian version, and were light and delicate, with a Thai-flavoured filling.

They arrived with a really good rice wine and cucumber dipping sauce.

The sauces were so tasty we kept them for our mains, but when they arrived it seemed akin to pouring ketchup over filet mignon, so they remained untouched.

Modern Thailand

Tucked at the rear of Applecross Arcade, Paste Thai’s decor evokes modern Thailand, with a decorative peaked-roof timber portico, a “woven” timber feature wall, and stylish rattan lampshades.

The service was spot on, helpful and efficient.

Paste Thai isn’t licensed, but lucky for us there’s a bottle shop a two-minute walk away.

Having eaten way too much, we contemplated dessert, mainly because the crispy banana rolls, with berries and chocolate sauce ($7.50), looked delicious.

But fortunately they were off the menu.

Saved from our gluttony we rolled out of the door and into the night.

by JENNY D’ANGER

Paste Thai
3 Kearns Crescent, Ardross
open 7 days lunch and dinner
6153 1592
BYO