EVER since I was a wee bairn growing up in Glasgow, I have always envied those with Italian grandparents.

As much as I loved my gran’s attempts at Italian cuisine — namely Heinz spaghetti on toast — there appears to be something special about growing up with an Italian granny and her cooking.

Whenever I have the chance, I love nothing more than eating at an Italian restaurant to fill the nonna void in my life.

Goddess

The new Italian restaurant Edesia, on Davis Road in Attadale, has classic red and white chequered table cloths and accordion muzak, and my friend and I couldn’t resist its kitsch charm.

Edesia is the Roman goddess of food who blesses and controls banquets, and I imagine she would have been quite chuffed with the offerings at her eponymous restaurant.

I went for the lasagne al forno ($27.50) and channelled Granny Smith with a side of french fries ($7.50).

The lasagne did not disappoint with the fresh pasta covered in a delicious veal and pork ragu, and the skinny chips had that perfect golden crunch on the outside and fluffy innards.

My dining companion ordered the fish of the day, barramundi ($36.50), from the special’s menu.

The fish was well cooked and the skin beautifully crisp, but overall she felt it was a bit overpriced.

However, the highlight of our meal was the bigne del sasso ($13.50) — profiteroles, crème patissiere, chocolate sauce, a beautiful crème anglaise and chocolate gelato.

“I’d come back just for the profiteroles,” my friend enthused.

The profiterole pastry was light and buttery, and the moreish filling made the dish the perfect coda to our meal.

BYO

Bibesia, the goddess of drinks, would be pleased to know Edesia is BYO.

The restaurant was bustling on a Wednesday night, so best to book if you plan to go at the weekend.

by CHARLIE SMITH

Edesia
6A Davis Road, Attadale
open Wed–Sun 5.30-11.00pm,
closed Mon-Tues
9329 9986
http://www.facebook.com/edesia.attadale/