A hidden bijou

APOLOGIES to my mate Stewart for spilling the beans on his favourite cafe, but he did repeatedly brag to me at the dog park about how good DeBretton and Bennet was.

It’s tucked down a narrow laneway behind the former NAB on High Street. One of those blink and you’ll miss the entrance numbers.

Front of house is World of Renovations, with displays of designer bathrooms, kitchens, flooring, furniture and wallpapers which is staffed by architects and designers advising on renovation and building a new home.

The eatery is down an atmospheric lane lined with bench tables and festooned with hanging baskets and massive Moroccan lamps, which creates a great entry, whetting the appetite for what lays beyond.

It’s not easy to spot and so far Stewart’s had things pretty much to himself, but word is spreading and he may be queuing next time he drops in for a coq au vin ($29) or a beef bourguignon ($34).

The cafe is also popular with the owner of the Record Finder across the road, who refers to DeBretton and Bennet as a “hidden gem”.

The menu isn’t large, but it is very French, as Stewart’s favourites indicate, so its no surprise the chef has come straight from a Michelin Star restaurant in Bordeaux.

D’Angerous Dave and I enjoyed a ginger ninja ($7.50) while waiting for our meal: an icy cold carrot and apple juice, with a dash of turmeric and a great ginger punch.

A chef was slicing up a quiche for a special order when we arrived, but the clever cook had made an extra one so it was vegetarian quiche ($16), pour moi.

The pastry was crisp, light and delicate and the filling a flavoursome mix of vegetables, topped with fetta.

It came with a great salad sprinkled with nuts and drizzled with a really good dressing, with a quarter of avocado on the side.

The daily special, inspired by local produce, was yellow tail tuna ($29) and Dave weighed in with a grin.

The firm flesh dropped away at the touch of a fork and was succulent and juicy, he opined.

His wilted asparagus topped with sesame seeds and nuts was pretty damn good too.

Relaxing in the alfresco, we finished a very enjoyable meal with a slice of pumpkin and maple syrup, and a poppyseed and orange cake ($7.50).

by JENNY D’ANGER

DeBretton and Bennett
86 High Street, Fremantle
9335 1200
open Thurs–Sun 8am–3pm,
Fri 5pm to closing

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