DUCK is the true test of a restaurant,” said my friend, before popping a ravioli parcel into her mouth.

I’m pleased to say Ruocco’s duck filling passed the test with flying colours.

“You can tell the pasta is freshly made and the filling is very tasty and the creamy sauce delicious,” said my mucka who was visiting from the eastern states.

Ruocco’s in South Fremantle has been around for almost 40 years, and the owners claim they started the wood-fired pizza craze in WA.

It’s been quite a while since the D’Angers dropped in, and with a visitor to impress it was time to renew our acquaintance.

A friendly waiter pointed us in the direction of an outdoor table protected from the cool evening breeze, setting the tone for the warm and efficient service to come.

We were initially nonplussed by the arancini entree ($16), made with potato not rice, but once our taste buds adjusted the starter was “delicious and not too filling”, our friend said.

A serve of garlic bread ($6) could have done with more garlic, but was the only disappointment of the evening.

Ruocco’s pasta is made in-house, including the crab meat linguine ($28), which included delicious capers, cherry tomatoes, spinach and ricotta.

D’Angerous Dave had been hanging out for pizza and barely glanced at the rest of the menu before ordering the four cheeses.

“It’s like an orchestra playing in your mouth,” he said, going all poetic after just one glass of sparkling mineral water.

“The gorgonzola is really good, then the other cheese flavours come through.”

A shared entree meant room for dessert, including a tiramisu ($10) and a chocolate and orange mousse ($9), which were delightful, but the stand out was the lavender and cointreau brulee ($10).

“I have had a lot of brulee and this is a nine out of 10,” our gourmand friend said.

And into the darkness we went, trying in vain to burn off a fine repast as we waddled home.

By JENNY D’ANGER

Ruocco’s Pizzeria e Ristorante
217 South Tce, South Fremantle
Tues–Sunday 11.30am–10pm
9335 6939