NIC & KOLO is as Applecross as a mummy in Gucci sweat pants during school pickup.
The restaurant is high-end without being too flashy and has consistently pleased punters with its reasonably-priced “Modern Oz”.
The industry elite has taken notice, handing Nic & Kolo more awards than James Cameron’s Titanic. It really is the king of Applecross.
The customer service is wonderfully hospitable, reflecting the restaurant’s bright and airy dining space.
Every course was delivered to our table with a big smile, a brief explanation of the dish, and an offer of more water or drinks. This is top-tier hospitality in a city where friendly service is as rare as a millennial with a home loan.
I couldn’t go past Aunty Cath’s pan-fried pork dumplings ($14.50).
A drizzle of chilli-infused, blood-red oil coated the juicy, dense dumplings, which were enhanced by the crunchy pickled vegetables and fresh spring onions.
The sweet, spicy, sour and savoury flavours were so exquisitely balanced I could have kissed Aunty Cath if she was nearby.
Just when you thought deep fried mac and cheese had been done to death in Perth, along comes this eggs benedict incarnation ($23).
Two slabs of panko crumbed macaroni cheese are topped with crunchy grilled asparagus, crispy pancetta, parmesan, two locally-sourced poached eggs and a dollop of tangy hollandaise.
Cutting through the fattiness was the bruschetta ($23): a culinary rainbow of cherry tomatoes, smashed avocado, firm feta and beetroot-cured salmon. A fine dish.
Food is so subjective it’s impossible to please everyone, and while there’s no such thing as a perfect restaurant, Nic and Kolo comes close.
It perfectly balances casual and fine dining – every visit is an absolute pleasure.
by MATTHEW EELES
Nic & Kolo