IT’S always nice going for a pub lunch on a Tuesday.
You feel slightly rebellious as the bourgeoisie tread water in some drab office.
Jambo Jim and I decided to try The Quarter Acre Hotel, which opened earlier this year in the Riseley Street shopping precinct in Applecross.
I expected it to be pretty quiet on a Tuesday, but the precinct car park was chockas and the hotel was buzzing on a lovely Spring day.
As we walked inside it quickly became apparent The Quarter Acre was a hangout for mothers’ groups, and I felt like I had gatecrashed a baby shower in a loin-cloth.
Undeterred, we grabbed a table in the lovely courtyard and started talking about “manly” things (the school run).
The Quarter Acre has something for everyone including a sandpit for kids, craft beers on tap for the dads, and nooks and crannies for couples to get intimate or stare at their phones.
The decor is bright and funky, and there is a fancy automated blind in the courtyard to shade punters.
The modest menu is typical pub fare with nibbles, burgers, mains and some smaller options for kids.
I went for the most interesting looking dish, the maple and miso grilled salmon ($29), and was impressed that the barman asked how well-cooked I wanted it (the first time I’ve been asked in a pub/hotel setting).
As we waited for our mains, the sun emerged from a bank of clouds and I could imagine the courtyard teeming with life on a hot summer’s night.
The salmon had lovely crispy skin and was cooked to perfection, with the accompanying snowpeas and lettuce adding a pleasant crunch to the dish.
The ginger and wasabi added a latent heat, which didn’t overpower the delicate fish and keep me interested until the final mouthful.
The salmon was delicious and the perfect size for lunch, but I would have still been hungry if I had it for dinner, and some baby potatoes would have been nice.
Jambo Jim reckons the true mettle of any hotel pub is the humble burger, so he ordered the chicken version with caribbean spice, mango chutney and avocado salsa ($20).
“The first couple of bites were chilli overload, like it had all been put in one section,” he noted.
“After that it mellowed out and was really enjoyable with a nice combination of flavours.
“The chicken was cooked to perfection and the bun was tasty and light. The meal was filling without being heavy.”
But he was disappointed with the fries, saying they were hollow and a bit greasy.
The Quarter Acre is a good addition to the Riseley Street precinct, which desperately needed a pub to counteract the litany of cafes and restaurants.
Just watch out for the cougars during the day.
by STEPHEN POLLOCK
The Quarter Acre Hotel
767 Canning Highway,