PAKORAS.

They’re on the menu of just about every Indian restaurant, but Kesari’s would have to be the best I’ve ever eaten.

The chickpea batter was crisp and the little parcels ($9) were crammed full of vegies so fresh you could decipher each one.

Since taking over a few months ago, the new owners of this Hilton curry house have really turned things around.

I’m hoping that customers who stayed away in droves (including the D’Angers) will return as word spreads about how good the food is.

Home from a camping trip and too tired to cook, we opted for take away.

The pakoras came with a sharp and salty tamarind sauce that contrasted nicely with the sweeter, deliciously chewy parcels.

Pretty soon we were shovelling aloo bhaji ($15.90) and fish masala ($20.60) over our vegetable biryani ($11.50) and diving in.

The potato curry was nice and spicy, and the spuds perfectly cooked with just the right level of floury softness.

The firm fish fillets melted in the mouth, amid a flurry of Indian spices that left the tongue tingling.

The biryani was packed with fresh vegetables that retained their flavour and crunch, despite the warm embrace of the turmeric-yellow rice.

We mopped up the last of the sauce with a really good garlic naan ($4).

There was so much we couldn’t finish it, so we had the leftovers for dinner the following night.

Kesari has risen from the disaster that was the Curry Club and is really flying high in the food stakes.

by JENNY D’ANGER

Kesari Indian Restaurant
273 South Street, Hilton
open 7 days 5.30-9pm