WE were the only customers in Miss Saigon during a late Friday lunch.

It was a bit like a magical cavern with rows of colourful silk lanterns multiplied by mirrors on the raw brick walls.

The surreal vibe in the Vietnamese restaurant was enhanced by the crazy straws, fruit and umbrellas in our fresh juices ($6.90)

Our waiter looked about 12, and her shy smile was as charming as the lanterns.

Although most lunch dishes were modestly priced at about $13 they were a bit beef heavy (including the intriguing “shaking beef”) so we asked to order from the main menu instead.

Our young waiter scurried off and then returned to say it was okay with the chef.

A serve of spring rolls ($6) started our culinary trip down the Mekong River. They were hot and flavoursome, boding well for the dishes that followed in quick succession.

The chewy bean curd pieces in the dau hu xao ca chua ($15.90) were smothered in a rich in-house tomato sauce, which had a delicious sweet-and-sour tang.

Our favourite dish was the mi xao chay (stir fried egg noodles $15.90). I’d love to know how the chef gave the soft noodles that terrific chargrilled flavour.

Last, but in no way least, was the rau xao thap cam ($13.90).

The seasonal green vegetables were cooked to perfection with just the right amount of crunch and salt.

Feeling guilty at ordering so much food, I’d told the waiter we’d be taking some home.

But everything was so damn good we couldn’t stop, and pretty soon only a trace of sauce was left on the plates.

By JENNY D’ANGER

Miss Saigon Vietnamese Cuisine
248 Stock Road, Melville
9330 7087