ANYWHERE, but Italian!” said Jenny D’Anger as we rumbled down South Terrace in the old Chook jalopy.
The former Herald journo had just returned from a three month holiday in Italy, which included a month-long intensive language course and a tour of the country in a decrepit camper van.
She loved the trip, but desperately needed a break from pizza, pasta and husband Dave singing Nessun dorma in the nude.
Luckily we were going to Palette in North Fremantle, which specialises in contemporary share plates with no particular culinary allegiance.
Situated on the ground floor of a swish apartment block, directly opposite Leighton Beach, Palette was in a stylish little hub of eateries with Al Lupo Bar opposite and The Orange Box and Bib and Tucker on the foreshore.
Despite the intense heat, the lively Freo Doctor and the large market umbrellas meant you could sit in Palette’s pavement alfresco in comfort.
It was a very relaxing spot and you could literally smell the salty ocean air and hear the waves crashing onto the beach.
The service was courteous and polite, and the smiley young waitress brought us out some tap water in a fancy glass jug.
The lunch menu had a range of share plates roughly divided into vegetables, seafood and meat dishes, with a couple of desserts (summer pavlova, Grandma’s famous slice with salted caramel ice cream) and some sides including marinated olives and house-made rosemary focaccia.
Highlights included the coral trout with fennel and goats cheese, the lamb cutlets with Mediterranean dough and lemon, and the burrata with basil, pomegranate and tomato medley.
Being a non-meat eater, D’Anger was impressed at the large range of vegetarian and vegan dishes, especially after her trip to Italy, where she said it was difficult to get veggies meals outside the big cities.
We kicked off with a summer cliche – calamari ($23).
Thankfully it was a superior version with miso mayo, seaweed, fresh chilli and green onion.
The main attraction – the squid rings – were super tender and had a lovely light dusting of spices and herbs.
Sitting outside, close to the ocean, it was the perfect summer eat. D’Anger was looking forward to the cauliflower with sesame dressing, ginger, shallots, buckwheat and sorrel ($16). While the produce was good quality, it lacked flavour and had a dryish texture (it could have done with a drizzle of balsamic vinegar).
“The cauliflower pieces lack oomph,” D’Anger noted.
“The sesame dressing could barely be tasted, and while the pickled ginger gave it a bit more punch there wasn’t enough of it to really lift the dish.”
Things picked up with the pumpkin muhammara ($17) a sweet and spicy middle eastern dip with labneh, red onion, feta, dukkah and mint.
“This is my favourite,” D’Anger said. “The rich orange colour is enhanced by a bed of creamy white labneh and tangy fetta creating a feast for the eyes as well as the tummy.”
I was really looking forward to the coral trout with fennel, goats cheese, dehydrated olives and dill ($26).
While the fish was nicely cooked and the presentation was good, the flavours just weren’t there and it was slightly bland, despite all the fancy ingredients on the plate.
The service, location and produce at Palette we’re all great. Some of the dishes hit the heights, while others lacked a flavour punch.
They do breakfast as well and I liked the sound of their Italian-style Porchetta Benedict, but it seemed to trigger PTSD in D’Anger.
“I just hope Dave isn’t dressed as Pavarotti when I get home…” she said nervously.
Palette Fremantle
1 Freeman Loop, North Fremantle
palettefremantle.com.au
by STEPHEN POLLOCK