IT was like a middle-class version of Custer’s Last Stand with kids running about with bowls of olives and adults munching on cheese platters.
I was in the Quarter Acre Hotel, where management had installed giant teepees in the leafy courtyard.
Under the thick canvas, children were playing with their friends while Nigel and Wendy sat cross-legged and talked about interest rates and their disappointing sex life.
The teepees – branded “Glamp-cations” – are a great idea and activate a dead unsheltered space in winter.
My wife “Special K” and I were perched on high stools on the outside deck, perusing Quarter Acre’s compact lunch menu, which had nibbles, tacos, burgers, sandwiches, mains and salads.
There was nothing that earth shattering on there, but a few dishes caught my eye including the Humpty Doo barramundi with roasted red pepper puree, new potatoes, fennel and herb salad.
The grilled harissa chicken with Israeli couscous was also tempting and some of the nibbles like la boqueria chorizo and grilled halloumi put my tastebuds on high alert.
There was also a large, reasonably priced kids menu (all dishes $12) including cheeseburger, chicken schnitzel, pasta, and fish and chips.
On a frigid winter’s day, I couldn’t go past the prawn linguine ($31) and it wasn’t long before the waiter was back with my steaming bowl of goodness.
Unfortunately he hadn’t brought our caddy of cutlery, and earlier he hadn’t been that careful when plonking down our drinks on the table.
The issue was soon resolved with an apology, but his service wasn’t the best (it should be noted that all the other bar staff were great).
The tomato sugo in the prawn linguine was the star of the dish – rich with a great depth of flavour and a subtle hit of chilli.
It was perfect for winter and a comforting, yet slightly sophisticated, dish.
While not the biggest, the prawns were nicely cooked and there was lots of them.
The linguini was delicate and perfect for mopping up the sauce, which had traces of garlic and basil. A very enjoyable pasta.
Across the table my wife was raving about her fried chicken burger ($28).
“Wow, the flavour in the fillet is off the chart and it has an exotic mix of sweet and spice with the gochujang caramel and chipotle mayo,” she said.
“The brioche bun is super soft and the chips are crunchy and well-seasoned.”
After all that hyperbole, I couldn’t resist a sneaky taste and can confirm the chicken burger was indeed delicious with a deep, marinated-style flavour.
Salads are often a limp afterthought in burger and chips, but this was a great incarnation with pickled slaw, fresh greens and a subtle moreish dressing.
We’ve been to Quarter Acre a few times since it opened in 2019, and it’s always delivered consistent, good quality food.
The venue is top-notch with loads of space inside and out (that leafy courtyard is perfect for a Sunday sesh).
There’s a good range of beers on tap and the Hotel is a favourite with mothers groups and local organisations earlier in the week.
Your biggest problem might be getting parked, but you can usually nab a space across the road beside Chimek.
As we got up to leave, Nigel and Wendy emerged from the teepee with a big smile on their face.
I think they might have traded their mid-life crisis for a mirror.
The Quarter Acre Hotel
767 Canning Highway,
Applecross
quarteracrehotel.com.au
by STEPHEN POLLOCK