EATING in shopping centres.
The mere words trigger Vietnam-style flashbacks to chiko rolls that look like sun-dried turds, snags oiler than Pee Wee Herman’s hair, and sloppy, congealed curries that resemble industrial sewage.
My personal favourite was buying a drink from the bar in the Old Shanghai Food Court in Freo, which was strategically placed beside the men’s toilets, and smelt like a thousand litter trays.
But in recent years, I’ve had some very pleasant experiences eating in shopping centres and the overall standard has improved drastically.
While the eateries tend to be a bit pricey to cover their higher rents, there are gems to be found.
A new player at Kardinya Park Shopping Centre is Akana Sushi.
The owners should be commended for a very classy fit-out that is restaurant-standard.
It’s a masterclass in minimalism, combining natural wood tones with subtle lighting and the odd Japanese flourish, like the gorgeous arch windows with paintings of snowy mountains and cherry blossom trees.
It’s modern, sleek, bright and inviting, and makes the most out of its small footprint.
There was a nice range of sushi, nigiri, inari, rice boxes, bentos, ramen and bubble tea.
The veg and fish looked super fresh and some of the dishes really “popped”, like the Tuna Poke which had a colourful array of edamame, seaweed, corn, carrot, pickled ginger, raw tuna and slaw.
All the classics were covered and there was a nice mix of sushi and pre-made meals for a quick takeaway and dine-in dishes like Roast Pork Miso Ramen and Tempura Udon.
With the cold, wet weather lingering, my wife “Special K” was wearing more layers than the Michelin Man and couldn’t go past the comforting Katsu Chicken Curry ($14.80).
The veg in a katsu curry can often be an aftethought – a few cursory chunks of about-to-spoil potato and carrot that don’t really do much – but this curry had a lovely medley of soft potato, sweet carrot and onion.
Nestled on the murky summit were some slices of succulent chook with a golden, crispy batter.
“It’s a gorgeous katsu curry and the all important sauce is thick and moreish,” my wife reported.
“The chicken is really tender with a nice panko coating, while the rice is fragrant and well cooked.”
The portion size was spot on and my wife just managed to polish it all off.
I went for the Teriyaki Beef Rice Bowl ($14.80) and it was also impressive. Beef can be a lottery in sushi joints – often it’s stringy, fatty or tough, or all of the above.
But this had tender strips of beef perched on a colourful bed of red capsicum, edamame and soft brown onion.
Sprinkled on top were some spring onions and sesame seeds, adding a flavour twist.
The all important teriyaki sauce had just the right level of saltiness and hit the mark. A very enjoyable dish.
Across the table my young kids were wolfing down their cooked tuna and avocado roll, and cucumber and avocado roll (both $5). They were quiet and ate it quickly without saying a word – their version of a glowing endrosement.
Akana Sushi is further proof you can go for a nice, casual meal in a shopping centre.
Hopefully I’ve turned a corner and no more lying on leather couches, talking to my therapist about chiko rolls and spotted dick…
Akana Sushi
Kardinya Park Shopping Centre
1/15 South St, Kardinya
akanasushi.com
by STEPHEN POLLOCK