Back in Black

THE Chook might have found a new contender for the best continental roll in Greater Perth.

This food reviewer has had some crackers over the years (just ask my waistline) with Lo Presti & Son in East Fremantle and The Re Store in Leederville high up the list.

But The Black Truffle could now be vying for top spot.

Situated on a busy stretch of the Stirling Highway in North Fremantle, it’s one of those places you’d probably whizz by in the car and miss, unless you’re a local.

Channelling the Dukes of Hazzard, I did a screeching right hand turn across the busy Highway and managed to nab a parking space in Liquorland next door.

The entrance to The Black Truffle is open and inviting with a cute sheltered alfresco and a weatherboard-style facade.

Inside was even better – clean, stylish and uncluttered with a Scandi-vibe – there was a display counter on the left, small goods on the opposite wall, and a long wooden table for communal dining.

Completing the minimalist picture was a jet black ceiling and swish downlights.

There was a steady stream of people coming and going on Tuesday lunchtime with everyone from construction folk working on the Fremantle Traffic Bridge to North Freo’s beau monde picking up choice morsels for Wendy and Nigel.

The display counter had a nice range of lunchtime goodies including ciabatta, wraps, bagels, upmarket burgers and salads. 

My wife “Special K” was soon tucking into her toasted veggie wrap ($11) – a giant soft tortilla crammed with fresh goodies.

“Wow, it’s got a lovely mix of sun-dried tomatoes, egg plant, avocado and tomato, and the red pesto is divine,” she said.

“It tastes super fresh and I love the mint cucumber, which gives it a nice zing.

“One of the best wraps I’ve had, with an Italian bent.”

I was soon tackling my delicious-looking continental roll ($14).

A whopper that would make John Holmes’ eyes water, this conti had a large girth and length to match.

I was soon enjoying a delightful mix of mortadella, salami, antipasto verde and sliced cheese.

An explosion of fresh Italian flavours with the perfect ratio of meat to mild cheese and antipasto.

Sometimes I get bored halfway through a conti roll, and my jaw begins to ache as I chow down on bread tougher than an old leather boot. But the all-important toasted ciabatta was light and airy, and overall it was filling but not dense.

Across the table, my young son was devouring his chicken schnitzel burger ($11.25) which had a lovely potato bun.

It was a precarious food skyscraper, teetering on the brink of demolition, but miraculously it held together until the last bite.

The main event – the schnitzel – was a tasty slab of tender chook with a light breadcrumb coating. File under superior, up-market chicken burger.

The Black Truffle turns into a pizzeria after 3pm, and lunch was so good we headed back the following night to try out the pizzas, which are freshly made-to-order.

Although there were some basic varieties, it’s very much gourmet pizzas with decadent toppings like gorgonzola, chilli chutney, porcini and pesto rosso.

We ordered a mix and the highlight was The Rule ($22) which had a lovely balance of pulled chicken and brie, and plenty of caramelised onions and mozzarella.

They hadn’t skimped on the high-quality toppings – it was great value – and the thin base was light and airy with a charred crust.

My “Bruce” pizza ($29) had so much Italian sausage, the slice collapsed when I picked it up.

The combination of gorgonzola, chilli chutney and rustic sausage tasted delicious, but it was too rich after a couple of slices (maybe a pizza to share around).

My young kids brought up the rear with The Thompson, a tasty mix of free range ham, mushrooms and olives ($14 for the children’s size).

The pizzas were great value for money and over-flowing with high quality ingredients.

The Black Truffle also do catering and sell a nice range of jarred and refrigerated small goods, so I’ll be back to try some of them.

The Black Truffle
82 Stirling Highway, North Fremantle
theblacktruffle.com.au

by STEPHEN POLLOCK

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