BACK FROM THE DEAD: the dearly beloved Old Shanghai food court is “set to return to life” as a “dynamic food and culture hub” after it’s leasing this week.
Although no specific details have been released, the new court “will pay homage to the venue’s storied past” as well as “modern culinary offerings, contemporary design” and a “renewed focus” on community connection in the well-loved space.
The Chook consulted well-seasoned journalist and food critic Jenny D’Anger for a quick reminiscence of the iconic food court, affectionally labelled the “Uppies” after its original name The Upmarkets.
“About 40 years ago, it was the place to go… it was a bit of a community hub,” Ms D’Anger said.
“There was music too, so it was awesome especially in summer because you could sit outside, and the markets were open late, so it was very vibrant around there.
“You couldn’t go there without bumping into about five other people that you knew.”
• A revamped Old Shanghai will pay tribute to its history as a key meeting place for locals.
Although comprised of mainly Asian cuisine in its later years, the “Uppies” offered a wide variety of well-priced international food in its early days which was why it was so popular, according to Ms D’Anger.
“People would go for any special occasion if they didn’t want to spend a heap of money,” she said.
“There was food from Egypt, there was food from America, there was food from Mexico… it was literally an international food hall, and that’s what made it really fantastic, because there were so many countries represented.
“Back in the ‘80s, there would be a lot of Sannyasins hanging around there because the food was cheap, but good.”
Old Shanghai’s decline was a symptom of its management, says Ms D’Anger, and “the Uppies” became “Old Shanghai”, which was then referred to as “the Shanghai shithouse”.
“It was very sad to see… people stopped going, including tourists themselves, because [at its height] it had a big name for itself,” Ms D’Anger said.
“As the quality went down, it was like the old management didn’t care anymore, so standards seemed to go out the window.”
It was at this point that this Chook journalist’s little sister, aged just three years old in the early 2000s, would be wheeled into the Old Shanghai in her pram and immediately label the place “gwubby”.
Ray White leasing agent Victor Aloi says he is “thrilled” to ensure that Old Shanghai will be revitalised, replicant of its former glory as a Freo institution.
“There’s a deep sense of nostalgia tied to this space, but also great excitement about its future,” Mr Aloi said.
“The new tenants have a vision that resonates with Fremantle’s creative and inclusive identity.”
Renovations will begin “immediately” and reopening is scheduled for late 2025.
by KATHERINE KRAAYVANGER