LIKE the dark matter that binds the universe together, there are a few restaurants on the Cappuccino Strip that seem to defy the laws of physics.
Food fads, influencers and double-cinnamon açaí-berry lattes come and go, but institutions like Sandrino are still standing. In their universe, Pavarotti never died.
A few years back, the Italian stalwart moved from the heart of the strip to just off it on Market Street.
It doesn’t seem to have hurt business and if anything the alfresco is more spacious and pleasant.
You still have the buzz of the strip in the background, but are far enough removed from kids emerging from Timezone high on sugar and maimai (a Japanese game where you hit stuff wearing Michael Jackson gloves).
On an overcast Father’s Day, Sandrino was packed to the gunnels.
Despite the throng of flabby, middle-aged dads, service was surprisingly quick and we had our drinks order taken in no time.
The menu strikes a nice balance between classic and modern Italian cuisine with pasta, risotto, pizza, mains and “from the grill”.
There’s everything from Crab Linguine and Lamb Cutlets to Seafood Platter and Chicken Parmi.
In short, a menu that covers a casual bite to eat to the semi-formal.
There was also a decent kids’ menu that came with a free drink, although it’s probably more cost-efficient to get an adult pizza for the kids to share.
There was a bit of a wait for the food, but nothing too excessive given it was Father’s Day.
After thanking my kids for The Invaders box set they got me—and telling them about Cold War paranoia—my Seafood Marinara ($37) arrived.
Plumes of steam erupted from the bowl as I twirled the house-made spaghetti around my fork.
There was a delicious bevy of prawns, squid, fish and scallops.
It was all beautifully cooked, especially the prawns, which were plump and full of flavour (so easy to overcook).
The underrated bass player in the band—the tomato sugo—was rich, thick and intense.
Just when your palate was starting to flag, the shaved parmesan added a creamy twist. A fantastic and very comforting dish.
My kids opted to share a Margherita pizza ($24) and chips with aioli ($12).
I had a taste of the pizza, which had puffy Napoli-style crusts, fior di latte and basil.
A very enjoyable number that was elevated by the flavoursome tomato sauce.
The chips were a bit anaemic-looking, but the kids enjoyed them.
Across the table, my wife “Special K” was getting stuck into her beer-battered Barramundi and chips ($32).
“A lovely piece of moist fish with a crunchy batter that isn’t too thick or heavy,” she noted.
“The chips and aioli are moreish, and the little side salad keeps things fresh and light.
“A solid fish and chips.”
Service was polite, quick and friendly throughout, even though the young waiting staff were rushed off their feet.
I’m a big fan of Sandrino—the food is high quality and the setting is cosy and homely, with none of the pretension that can accompany more “trendy” places.
Bellies full, it was time to go home and watch an episode of The Invaders.
“You’ll like it, kids. The aliens glow red when they die.”
Sandrino Cafe and Pizzeria
95 Market St, Fremantle
sandrino.com.au
by STEPHEN POLLOCK