TIMING is everything in newspapers. With a piteous “I’m so hungry!” cry I cast an eye around the office for someone to take on a food review and I quickly had my victim.

We headed to Collie Street, to Vietnamese mainstay Ipho.

The large open space is enlivened with red paper lanterns, but otherwise is pretty utilitarian and still reminds me of its former life as a Han’s outlet.

It really could do with a few pots of ferns and bamboo scattered around, to break up the space and add some colour.

It’s a shame the decor is so bland because the welcome by staff is as warm as a Saigon summer day and the food beautifully presented, fresh and delicious, with an emphasis on fresh mint and lettuce.

Thai fish cakes are a favourite, so it was time to try the Vietnamese version ($11.80).

Golden brown and deep-fried, they had the same chewy texture, but were completely different, more subtle than the lime and chilli powered Thai ones, the flavours coming from shallots, sesame oil, and spring onions, allowing the fish flavour to come through.

Sizzling platters at the next table sent mouth-watering scents in our direction and we were well primed for the arrival of our mains, for me a fish claypot ($28.50)  and my hungry colleague the coconut chilli chicken ($23.50).

The generous, tender, barramundi fillets were swimming in a delicious caramelised sauce, flavoured with chilli, onions and spring onions. My companion’s chicken literally fell off the bone, and sampling a spoonful of the sauce I can vouch for its pleasantly fresh chilli zing. With serves this generous, lunch the next day was sorted and we took home a couple of doggy bags.

Ipho has been on Collie Street for four years, which in the tough world of Freo’s food industry, is a pretty good score.

I can see why it’s stuck around when the food is unfailingly fresh and delicious and the service spot on, and there are plenty of vegetarian and gluten-free options on the menu.
But they could do with work on the coffee, which was bitter as a badger’s bottom.

by JENNY D’ANGER

Ipho Vietnamese
25 Collie Street, Fremantle
open 7 days lunch
and dinner | 9335 8520