THE little group of shops on the corner of Stock Road and Leach Highway has undergone a bit of a renaissance in recent years.
Okay, so it’s not the Champs-Élysées, but the grubby TAB has gone and now there’s an Everyday Bread, JM Burger, Angry Charcoal Chicken and Diner One Taiwanese joint.
It’s a nice range of low-cost eateries to choose from; handy with the cost of living soaring and interest rates higher than Snoop Dogg.
I was in the mood for some good old comfort food so I opted to get takeaway from JM Burger, an American-style burger and wings joint.
They have another outlet in Shelley and expanded into Willagee in 2019.
The menu had a variety of finger-lickin’, cholesterol-bustin’ beef and chicken burgers, wings, loaded fries and sides. All the things the doctor tells you not to eat, but you crave.
There was an interesting range of burgers with all the classics covered and some more adventurous fare like the 180g beef patty with squid ink aioli and grilled mushrooms in a charcoal bun, and a burger with truffle mayo.
The menu had an extensive range of wings with everything from honey soy to hickory smoked BBQ, but I couldn’t go past the Buffalo Wings ($14.90).
For the price you got a really decent serve with plenty of succulent chook to gnaw off the bone.
The trump card was the original Frank’s hot sauce (medium) which had a lovely bend of heat and spices with a slightly sweet coda.
It was a delicious, moreish sauce that kept you coming back for more. A top dish.
The kids burger meal deal ($14 for a kids burger, chips and juice box) didn’t quite hit the same heights.
The quality was good and there was plenty of crispy chips, but the burger was tiny and only really suitable for kids aged about 6. Our nine year olds were still hungry after it.
But the quality was there and they wolfed it all down and said it was “yummy”.
Things picked up again with the Hotchickin burger ($17.90).
It was a nice size and well constructed; just big enough that you could pick it up and eat it without everything spilling out the sides.
The fried chicken fillet had a satisfying crunch and the fresh cabbage and pickles added a lovely tang, creating a nice mix of textures and flavours.
The special hot sauce was a super sticky affair, that had me reaching for a serviette every second mouthful, but it had plenty of flavour and a spicy kick.
Rounding things off was the brioche-style bun which was lovely and light. A really enjoyable burger, apart from the sauce which was a bit too sticky, but that’s just a personal preference.
I completed my heart attack with some Mac and cheese loaded fries ($19.90).
It was one of those guilty pleasures with the gooey melted mozzarella going perfectly with the crisp, seasoned fries.
I would have liked a bit more melted cheese, but the core of the dish was good.
JM Burger is a solid burger joint and I really enjoyed their Buffalo Wings, so I’ll be back to try more of them and perhaps a traditional beef burger next time around.
A good shout if you’re feeling peckish during the Grand Final (come on the Cats!).
73 Leach Highway, Willagee
by STEPHEN POLLOCK